Saturday, April 14, 2012
Corners Tavern, Walnut Creek
There are restaurants where the menu reads like a novel you cant put down, menus where every item sounds wonderful and you cant decide, already anxious to return to try the next goodie. The Girl and The Fig and Bouchon come to mind.
We knew we were in trouble at Corners Tavern when we felt let down that there wasn't a special.
On a very wet Thursday night we were excited to try this outpost from the group that brought us one of our favorites in SF, Town Hall. The scene was buzzing, very busy with a wide range of characters from the young pros to lady's night out. We were seated in the bar at a comfortable communal coach and coffee table with friendly strangers while waiting for our table, very thirsty for that first imbibing of spirit. The 15 minute wait for service felt like an hour as the server went around our table again and again. Sure enough, just as we began to order, the hostess announces our table is ready, which means another 15 minutes "longest mile" until a drink order is secured.
The setting is very warm and welcoming, wood and steel combined with eclectic details...kind of Industrial Chic meets Alice in Wonderland. All in all, very nice, but the concrete floors and high open ceiling results in a noise level that requires your outside voice for a conversation, further feeding the decibel level. The huge roll up doors will be a wonderful idea for warm summer nights, allowing the dining room to spill out to the small patio.
Our servers were attentive, friendly and knowledgeable. When we expressed an urgency for our initial cocktail due to our wait, they brought us some marinated peppers gratis. A nice treat thank you, but not exactly the best partner to the delicate and lovely Gin, Grapefruit and Dimmi Liqueur "Midnight on the Riviera". The original cocktail list reads like the menu, somewhat interesting, but again nothing that screams "I need that", as witnessed by wife's beer order.
The menu dilemma was also defined by my usually adventurous brides ordering of the Corner Burger. It was "good" but lost in a massive bun. It continued to play out with my order of the fried flounder filet, shishito peppers, fingerling salad, piquillo aioli. The fish was excellent, fried with a deft hand and served with a generous serving of very good potato salad...but in the end it was just that, fried fish and potatoes. With this restaurant group's resume, was it too much to expect more? Perhaps they feel the Walnut Creek food scene is not quite ready for prime time.
The dessert offerings continued the trend, five somewhat unenthusiastic choices. The Banana Beignets were perfectly fried, but the chocolate stout sauce, while tasting of quality chocolate were devoid of any measurable benefit of stout.
Whether it was our lightly voiced concern of a slow start to service, or our sharing of the wine we brought with a server, the $20 corkage was waived, bringing the total to a manageable $65. The tariff was not a concern, as the food we had was satisfying, but just.
While the food scene continues to evolve in Walnut Creek, the migration of SF level originality to our municipality is moving at a glacial pace. One would hope this group might expedite the process.
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Alas the poor duck...
The glorious silken mouth feel of Foie Gras is irresistible. The decedent bit of contrast between the perfectly seared, browned exterior and the soft, luscious interior is sublime. It is hard to find in restaurants, and expensive when it is.
But what of home preparation? Irrelevant to discuss I suppose as the eminent ban on this delicacy is upon us. But my lovely bride gifted me a 1/2lb lobe, $31, frozen, for Christmas and it's fate was a sizzling hot pan, brioche and balsamic. Last night was the night, with fellow foodies.
In fear of having too much to coordinate in delivering the final dish, I passed on the sweetened fruit, caramelized pears or such. I just keep thinking about Thomas Keller advice...something like "it's not difficult to prepare, just don't look away while it's in the pan or you'll be left with an expensive puddle of duck fat".
Epicurious' Sauteed Duck Foie Gras. Dead easy, hot oil, livers in, 30 or so seconds, livers out, balsamic in a bit of the fat and make that a bit syrupy. Pour over the Foie Gras. Very easy. I would only say that the livers shrink a bit, so be generous when carving the pieces to cook. They cook VERY quick, keep a close eye.Also, a Gordan Ramsey trick, lightly crosshatch cuts in the surface of the livers. This opens the surface up a bit and makes the browning more effective and attractive.
I served it over toasts carved out of brioche hamburger buns from Whole Foods and poured a Alvear Solera 1927 sticky dessert wine. All in all a success, a real treat.
I'm ready to experiment more, but only 4 months left....
But what of home preparation? Irrelevant to discuss I suppose as the eminent ban on this delicacy is upon us. But my lovely bride gifted me a 1/2lb lobe, $31, frozen, for Christmas and it's fate was a sizzling hot pan, brioche and balsamic. Last night was the night, with fellow foodies.
In fear of having too much to coordinate in delivering the final dish, I passed on the sweetened fruit, caramelized pears or such. I just keep thinking about Thomas Keller advice...something like "it's not difficult to prepare, just don't look away while it's in the pan or you'll be left with an expensive puddle of duck fat".
Epicurious' Sauteed Duck Foie Gras. Dead easy, hot oil, livers in, 30 or so seconds, livers out, balsamic in a bit of the fat and make that a bit syrupy. Pour over the Foie Gras. Very easy. I would only say that the livers shrink a bit, so be generous when carving the pieces to cook. They cook VERY quick, keep a close eye.Also, a Gordan Ramsey trick, lightly crosshatch cuts in the surface of the livers. This opens the surface up a bit and makes the browning more effective and attractive.
I served it over toasts carved out of brioche hamburger buns from Whole Foods and poured a Alvear Solera 1927 sticky dessert wine. All in all a success, a real treat.
I'm ready to experiment more, but only 4 months left....
Saturday, February 18, 2012
Where are you Dottie?
Some things never change....beautiful February mornings in the city, obnoxious protesters picketing a hotel with bull horns that that I can hear from my unpicketed hotel a block away, and a line at Dotties.
As usual, a Friday night stay in SF is followed by a foggy headed Saturday morning walk to Dottie's seeking the egg and pig based antidote. One block west, one block south, I can do this...wait, I know it's this block, no line, no blue awning, no fix!!! Good god Dottie's gone, what am I to do? No idea they moved shop due south to 6th street.
Nervously wondering if they could keep their mojo, their terroir if you will while upsizing I stumble the 5 or 6 blocks south to the new digs.
They certainly kept their sketchy neighbors, the panhandlers. A much larger, attractive dining space is accompanied by what strangely appears to be the same 2'x2' griddle from which the same grumpy chef (owner?) deftly delivers his bounty. The more comfortable space is duly equipped with the same capable staff.
The menu's the same and the specials interesting, but my system sought the confluence of bacon and jack cheese that only an omlette can deliver. They deliver the beautiful heap of joyful relief and as I fumble to pick up utensils, they just as quickly wisk it away without explanation..."one second" is all I hear. Maybe they realized my potatoes weren't crispied up as I ordered...nice. It returns, not one but hundreds of seconds later looking suspiciously like the exact plate they took away, soft spuds and all. The omlette was perfect, generously studded with their excellent bacon, just damp in the center. But is it really that difficult to brown potatoes....like the plates to my left and right?
Great place, food and service delivering the goods like the Jones location, but I wonder about the logic of the move. They certainly needed more space, and the line was out the door, but Jones St was so close to the Union Square hotels and while the hood was tough, you didn't feel for your safety. Now those same tourists have to wade through the Ellis, Eddy, Turk swamp of crack heads and cross Market to get their fix. Good luck
As usual, a Friday night stay in SF is followed by a foggy headed Saturday morning walk to Dottie's seeking the egg and pig based antidote. One block west, one block south, I can do this...wait, I know it's this block, no line, no blue awning, no fix!!! Good god Dottie's gone, what am I to do? No idea they moved shop due south to 6th street.
Nervously wondering if they could keep their mojo, their terroir if you will while upsizing I stumble the 5 or 6 blocks south to the new digs.
They certainly kept their sketchy neighbors, the panhandlers. A much larger, attractive dining space is accompanied by what strangely appears to be the same 2'x2' griddle from which the same grumpy chef (owner?) deftly delivers his bounty. The more comfortable space is duly equipped with the same capable staff.
The menu's the same and the specials interesting, but my system sought the confluence of bacon and jack cheese that only an omlette can deliver. They deliver the beautiful heap of joyful relief and as I fumble to pick up utensils, they just as quickly wisk it away without explanation..."one second" is all I hear. Maybe they realized my potatoes weren't crispied up as I ordered...nice. It returns, not one but hundreds of seconds later looking suspiciously like the exact plate they took away, soft spuds and all. The omlette was perfect, generously studded with their excellent bacon, just damp in the center. But is it really that difficult to brown potatoes....like the plates to my left and right?
Great place, food and service delivering the goods like the Jones location, but I wonder about the logic of the move. They certainly needed more space, and the line was out the door, but Jones St was so close to the Union Square hotels and while the hood was tough, you didn't feel for your safety. Now those same tourists have to wade through the Ellis, Eddy, Turk swamp of crack heads and cross Market to get their fix. Good luck
Sunday, January 22, 2012
What Price Bourbon Steak?
After such a mix of diverse reviews, I was anxious to get on with our dinner at Bourbon Steak. I, like others had high expectations for what is a decidedly pricey steakhouse.
Arriving early to enjoy a cocktail and bite at the bar at 7:00 on Black Friday, the space was packed. We were able to shuffle up to the bar after a few minutes and enjoyed our drinks with the perfunctory Lobster Corn Dogs. They are wonderful bites, no doubt, but at $16 for four - two bite snacks, the game was on. Cocktails were spot on, and the bartender pleasant.
Seated 30 minutes early was a treat for us. I had brought wine, which was taken when we checked in with the hostess, and presented again when we sat. This set the tone for service that was impeccable all evening. That level you expect at a venue like this where you no one is hovering or bothering, but absolutely nothing goes wanting. Simply wonderful service.
A note on the noise level. Unfortunately there was a table of 8 or so that were acting as if they were at Outback Steak vs. Bourbon Steak. They were raucous and disruptive to the point where the table next to us complained. Once they left, we were able to judge the noise as buzzing, not quiet by any means but not so loud that we couldn't maintain a personal conversation.
Duck Fat fries three ways with three sauces were excellent, a very nice "gift" to start. Kumomoto Oysters were lovely, and served with two sauces, a mignonette and cocktail. ($21 for 4).
But we came for the beef! My wife had the 14oz New York ($46), and I the 18oz Bone In Rib Eye ($49). My Rib Eye was extremely tender and very flavorful. Not disappointing, but I expected an ethereal carnivore experience. They slow butter poach the steaks before a quick grill, a preparation I have been dreaming about. They charge more for Prime beef, and I feel this was maybe the difference.
My wife's NY was, in her words...tough. Dare I say grislely? Obviously much less than expected.
The Truffle Mac and Cheese (all sides are $10) delivered the goods, but the sauteed spinach was just that and nothing more, shockingly bland. They pay so much attention to detail, to put a blob of wet spinach on a plate with some crispy bits on top was a let down. I know it's just spinach, but whats easier to dress up?
The roller coaster continued with a spectacular Root Beer Float ($10) dessert. A real treat with both Root Beer liquid and a granita over Ice Cream served with two perfect chocolate chip cookies. See what can be done with simple dishes (see previous spinach reference)
A decidedly mixed night, unfortunately not living up to expectations. Very tough to rate with the service and experience so very nice...but we came for perfect Steaks, and I would have traded some of the service perfection for better beef.
4 stars at $250....3 stars at $400!
Arriving early to enjoy a cocktail and bite at the bar at 7:00 on Black Friday, the space was packed. We were able to shuffle up to the bar after a few minutes and enjoyed our drinks with the perfunctory Lobster Corn Dogs. They are wonderful bites, no doubt, but at $16 for four - two bite snacks, the game was on. Cocktails were spot on, and the bartender pleasant.
Seated 30 minutes early was a treat for us. I had brought wine, which was taken when we checked in with the hostess, and presented again when we sat. This set the tone for service that was impeccable all evening. That level you expect at a venue like this where you no one is hovering or bothering, but absolutely nothing goes wanting. Simply wonderful service.
A note on the noise level. Unfortunately there was a table of 8 or so that were acting as if they were at Outback Steak vs. Bourbon Steak. They were raucous and disruptive to the point where the table next to us complained. Once they left, we were able to judge the noise as buzzing, not quiet by any means but not so loud that we couldn't maintain a personal conversation.
Duck Fat fries three ways with three sauces were excellent, a very nice "gift" to start. Kumomoto Oysters were lovely, and served with two sauces, a mignonette and cocktail. ($21 for 4).
But we came for the beef! My wife had the 14oz New York ($46), and I the 18oz Bone In Rib Eye ($49). My Rib Eye was extremely tender and very flavorful. Not disappointing, but I expected an ethereal carnivore experience. They slow butter poach the steaks before a quick grill, a preparation I have been dreaming about. They charge more for Prime beef, and I feel this was maybe the difference.
My wife's NY was, in her words...tough. Dare I say grislely? Obviously much less than expected.
The Truffle Mac and Cheese (all sides are $10) delivered the goods, but the sauteed spinach was just that and nothing more, shockingly bland. They pay so much attention to detail, to put a blob of wet spinach on a plate with some crispy bits on top was a let down. I know it's just spinach, but whats easier to dress up?
The roller coaster continued with a spectacular Root Beer Float ($10) dessert. A real treat with both Root Beer liquid and a granita over Ice Cream served with two perfect chocolate chip cookies. See what can be done with simple dishes (see previous spinach reference)
A decidedly mixed night, unfortunately not living up to expectations. Very tough to rate with the service and experience so very nice...but we came for perfect Steaks, and I would have traded some of the service perfection for better beef.
4 stars at $250....3 stars at $400!
Sassa Sassy
Walnut Creek residents and visitors have certainly benefited from the explosion of restaurants downtown in the last 10 years. The quality and variety bar has been raised, challenging newcomers to keep pace. This trend has even brought recognition from his highness Michael Bauer in the way of 8 straight years for Va de Vi's placement on the Top 100 list.
While many of these new establishments bring very good to excellent food to the area, they all feel "safe" in their menus. Even Va de Vi, while in places innovative doesn't show a real flair for creativity. Mac 'n cheese again...really?
This is where Sassa shines. There are no doubt small clunks along the way; the $5 skewered Chicken Hearts tasted more of the seven pepper spice than the richness of the hearts themselves, but overall there a real feeling of passion for what Chef Sam Castro is preparing.
The $30 Sashimi Deluxe offered 6 double portion, healthy sized, and delectable nuggets. Supremely fresh, each piece was wonderful and just special enough to deserve the premium to the $22 entry level Sashimi Izakaya. The Deluxe included Sea Urchin…the fantastic Foie Gras of the sea.
The overall selection is vast but not overwhelming, and doesn’t seem to overtask the kitchen. It’s a menu that makes you want to come back to explore more. The $12 Roasted Asian Squash Dumplings, using Won Ton type wrappers as a sedan were lovely, accented smartly with a rich but not over powering Balsamic-Brown Butter sauce. Trishy loved the generous portion of $7 Pan Roasted Brussel Sprouts, which were dressed with bacon and Lemon, Brown Butter & Soy sauce.
There’s not much to choose from East of the tunnel when it comes to Offal, and in fairness we’re entry level members of the nasty bits club, but Chef Castro delicately introduces the masses. In addition to the aforementioned Chicken Hearts we had the liberal potion of $12 Ika Sugatayaki – grilled jumbo whole Squid. It was very good, although the bottom of the rounds were just a bit chewy, they were served with a nicely spiced sambal aioli.
The $13 Anago Hot Pot Rice used a perfectly poached egg to bring together BBQ Sea Eel, Scallions and Sansho Pepper. I just wish the soft boiled egg was as soft in the “Green Eggs and Ham”. A long tray of deftly handled Soy Braised Pork Cheeks dressed adorned with micro greens. The combination worked well, but oddly the Panko Breaded egg was served chilled which, in my opinion wasn’t the ideal way to set off the dish. I think the wait staff might benefit from offering a utensil other than the chop sticks with this dish to help dissect the egg.
The space in the front is very attractive, utilizing the original brickwork of this lovely old building, but the room in the back where we were seated, while nicely decorated, was a bit cold, making one feel as if they are relegated to coach class while the rest of the patrons are seated in business. The wait staff is attentive and knowledgeable, and act as if they are proud of what they have to offer. Something lacking all too often in so many restaurants. After a 15 minute wait for the car valet upon arrival the hostess took my keys and delivered my valet ticket to our table when it was finally parked. Nice.
The staff’s attention to detail is a point of difference to Va de Vi, where at times they make feel as if you’re privileged to be dining there. And while the tariff is similar, there’s more of a feeling of value at Sassa. It’s not cheap, but perhaps it just the sense of everything coming together better at Sassa.
Sassa’s menu is not ideally suited for a huge wine list, but with that said, it should be pointed their list is very disappointing, offering only a small, routine selection. Boring
If Walnut Creek is to really stand out and give us reason to stay home from San Francisco (and even Oakland now) for a special meal with innovative cuisine, Sassa's kind of new thinking is more of what’s needed here.
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Happy Va De Vi to Trishy
A few years ago Trish and I visited the ragingly successful Va De Vi in the WC. The excellent food and sturdy if cursory wine flight program was brought to a screeching halt when we asked for bread. "We only serve bread with the small plates that come with bread". Telling a Irish girl that at dinner is like telling Isabel no to bisquits, or Angel no to wine...not wise. Suffice to stay the evening ended with a emergency run to BK!
Well after like 83 years straight on Bauers Top 100 list, she asked to try it again for her birthday. A packed Friday night in a tight, bustling space. It is surprising how manageable the noise is in the long narrow dining room, but not surprising is the diversity of the crowd....old (us), young (them). Trish wouldn't let me taste her Lakeside Lemonade so no comment. I broke down and had a 209 Martini.
The moment of truth came when Trish ordered bread with our Ahi Tartare...success! Because I'm so generous, I let Trishy order all the small plates...
The service was attentive, timely and friendly..well played. All in all a very satisfying evening, but I just struggle with the value equation in the small plate format. It was a very enjoyable meal with almost plenty of food for $200 for 2 drinks, 5 plates and 6 - 3oz glasses of wine Is it me...am I cheap?
Well after like 83 years straight on Bauers Top 100 list, she asked to try it again for her birthday. A packed Friday night in a tight, bustling space. It is surprising how manageable the noise is in the long narrow dining room, but not surprising is the diversity of the crowd....old (us), young (them). Trish wouldn't let me taste her Lakeside Lemonade so no comment. I broke down and had a 209 Martini.
The moment of truth came when Trish ordered bread with our Ahi Tartare...success! Because I'm so generous, I let Trishy order all the small plates...
- Ahi tartare with sesame rice crackers = Very good, but when the fish is right, how can you screw this up?
- Wonderful Beef Carpaccio with potato chips as the sedan
- The Duck Confit was a whole leg served with steamed buns. The meat was cooked perfectly, but we all yearn for the crackling crisp skin which they didn't deliver
- Rock Shrimp Avocado Lumpia, very nice but lacking soft bite or heft or just something
- The Pork Belly has the crisp layer that the Duck lacked, and I thought was the star of the meal with chili soy glaze that complimented the tender pork without over powering it.
The service was attentive, timely and friendly..well played. All in all a very satisfying evening, but I just struggle with the value equation in the small plate format. It was a very enjoyable meal with almost plenty of food for $200 for 2 drinks, 5 plates and 6 - 3oz glasses of wine Is it me...am I cheap?
Saturday, March 12, 2011
What the hell is this......
Timm: So at a typical dinner out, either I am crowing about the technical brilliance of a meal and Trishh is saying it's shite OR she loves the simplicity (read potatoes and over cooked veggies) and I'm looking for the bill. Who gives a shit about our dining diatribe? We'll see.
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